Summary
Our plants are usually measured by height - '30/40cm' means a plant is between 30cm and 40cm high measured from soil level to the top of the plant - the roots are not included in the measurement.

Plants come in a variety of forms, the main being; bare root, root ball, cell grown and container (pot). Bare Root and Root Ball are available from November to March when the plant is dormant. Cell Grown is available September to May. Containers (pots) are available all year round.

RHS Bare Root
HedgeNursery.co.uk is the only provider of RHS Bare Root Hedging Plants under licence granted by the Royal Horticultural Society. RHS Bare Root plants, taken from cuttings of existing stock or as seed with a local provenance (see Forestry Commission seed zone 403, 404), are grown in rich Herefordshire soil, on a 220 acre farm, and rotated with pigs to help remove the need for fertilizers.



These plants are cared for with regular undercutting, transplanting and pruning. The crops are irrigated from local stream water, taken as winter run-off, and stored for the dry summer months. There are no polytunnels, heating or peat used in the process. This low input growing helps reduce the impact on local resources.

Steve, the head nurseryman, collects many of the seed himself and his son can even tie the provenance of the horse chestnuts to an exact tree! Plants are lifted by Steve and his staff and delivered directly from the fields, to ensure they are fresher than stored imported plants.



Bare root plants are lifted to order from November until March when they are dormant. They are then carefully graded by height, batched into bundles of 25 or 10, boxed and dispatched straight to your door within 72 hours of picking to ensure freshness.

RHS Bare root hedging is delivered without soil on the roots, during the months of November to March when the plants are dormant. We recommend that all RHS Bare root hedging plants should be planted as soon as possible as the plant is still alive and the roots need to be kept moist.

RHS Bare root is the most efficient way of ordering planting material; no pot, no peat, no heat just plants in their basic form produced outdoors, hardy as nature intended.



The main advantage of RHS Bare root hedging is the cost. These plants cost less to produce due to cheaper production, handling and transport costs. All the plants that we sell bare root respond well to this type of harvesting. Orders ahead of 1st November will be stored to guarantee an early delivery date.

Bare root is sold by age and height

(1+1)	1 year old seedling lined out for 1 year - in most cases a 2 year old plant 40-60cms or 60-80cms height is the best choice and is the staple norm.
(1+0 LD)	1 year old seedling "Low Density" grown at wide spacing and undercut during the growing season - a cheaper specification suitable when planting where weed competition will be less intense, soil shallow or on exposed windy sites.
(1u1)	1 year old seedling undercut and grown in situ for 1 further year - a 2 year old plant - gives a slimmer, straighter plant.
(1+0)	1 year old seedling
(0/1)	1 year hardwood cutting
(1+2)	1 year old seedling lined out for 2 years - a 3 year old plant - a stocky bushier plant.

Root ball
Root balled plants have an advantage that as they come with soil in the root ball, their original site can be replicated. Root balled plants can only be moved when they are dormant (November to March). When planting ensure that the plants are in a slightly raised manner so that the roots will not drown or suffocate. The planting holes should be dug twice as wide than the root ball and the same depth as the root ball. Root balled plants are heavier than bare root so usually have a heavy item delivery charge.


Cell Grown
What are Cell Grown Plants?

• Cell Grown Plants (CGPs) are raised in special small containers (or cells) , filled with a growing medium. The cells are especially designed to prevent root spiralling and promote fibrous root growth.
• Although CGP’s have been used all over the world for many years, particularly in North America, Canada and Scandanavia, they have only been available in significant numbers in the UK since the early 1990’s.
• Cell Grown Plants outperform bare-root plants because they come with a fully functional root system. Bare-root plants inevitably suffer damage and stress when they are lifted from the nursery beds. The root systems on CGPs remain intact, and the fine fibrous feeding roots are sent out with the plant enabling rapid establishment once planted out. There is relatively little check when a CGP is planted out compared to a bare-root plant.
• Generally, the age of CGPs tend to be younger than bare-root stock and the sizes offered are on average, smaller. Commonly available sizes are 20-40cms and 40-60cms plants for broadleaved trees whilst shrubs are generally trimmed back to encourage sideshoots and are sold as 15-30cms plants. Conifers are generally made available as 10-20cms and 20-40cms plants.
• What is important in a plant is the root to shoot ratio. The larger the plant, the more difficult it is to achieve this balance whilst retaining a root system that can be easily planted. Although CGPs may on average be smaller than bare-root plants, they have been found to establish well – especially in exposed sites - where larger plants can suffer due to a root system which finds difficulty in keeping the shoot supplied with moisture and nutrients.
• Over the past decade CGPs have gained wide popularity amongst foresters, landscapers and also nurserymen who use them for accelerated production of 2litre stock.

The Benefits of Using Cell Grown Grown Plants

• Cell grown plants can be safely graded and despatched from the nursery all year round without damage to the roots.
• They may be safely planted over an extended season, i.e. from September to May or even longer provided they do not experience drought conditions.
• Very high establishment percentage will be achieved, i.e. minimal losses.
• The plants do not “check” on planting, hence rapid early growth is made.
• They are easy to plant and little, if any, ground cultivation is required.
• If planting is delayed the plants can be held for several weeks provided the roots do not dry out.
• The root plug contains both naturally occurring mycorrhizae ( a symbiotic fungus which enhances the absorption of nutrients by the feeding root hairs) and added fertiliser.
• Our growing containers are designed to eliminate root-spiralling, thus improving tree stability in the field.
• Our special packing systems permit and ensure careful handling of plants in transit.
• We specialise in producing native trees from British seed sources of known provenance.
• Our computerised production management and stock control system ensures complete traceability from seed collection to plant delivery.

Container (Pot)
The advantage of using plants grown in pots is that 100% of the roots are in the containers and that the plants is well established in the container, ready for planting out. The main disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed roots. "Root bound" plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots are a physical barrier to future root growth and development. If this condition is not corrected at planting time, the plant may experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before planting.


Instant Hedging
This is the premium range of hedging. Plants are grown together in troughs, usually of one metre lengths as a single rootball. The hedge is ready clipped at the sides, so all you need to do is plant and cut the top to the height required. These hedges come direct from the nursery on a pallet.

Generally speaking, buying smaller plants enables you to grow a denser hedge from ground level. In addition smaller plants survival rate is generally better than larger plants. Of course you have to wait a little longer for the hedge to reach the height you want, so there is a trade off. Infact, if you really want a very dense hedge at the bottom of a Hawthorn, Blackthorn or Privet hedge, you can cut them back after planting to 10cm or so.

Larger plants can have bigger gaps at the base, are more expensive and slightly more likely to fail. However, they provide more ‘instant hedging’ as you don’t have to wait for height. If you want very instant hedging, then we recommend that you view our instant hedging range. These are specially grown plants in troughs for the instant look.

You may want a bit of privacy, to hide something from your view. If so you may with to consider;

• Leylandii (Leyland Cypress) ; An evergreen that can grow at 2-3 feet per year. Choose from Golden Leylandii (Leylandii Castlewellan Gold) or Green Leylandii. We can get them up to 12 feet high for some instant privacy.
• Lawsons`s Cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana). Sold bare root between March and November, and is consequently very good value.
• Western Red Cedar (Thuja Plicata). An evergreen conifer like Leyland Cypress. Unlike Leyland Cypress it can be more easily cut back into the old wood and still grow back. Western Red Cedar can be bought bare root to keep the costs down, and because it grows at only 2 ft a year it is easier to control than Leyland Cypress.
• Prunus Laurocerasus (common or cherry laurel); Fast growing at 1½ per year, dense, evergreen and even good in wet sites. Easy to cut back and control as it will grow back rapidly.
• Cotoneaster Lacteus; Fast growing at 1-1.5 ft per year and provides a dense evergreen screen with red berries.

If you want to keep intruders out, you may need a dense, difficult to penetrate hedge with thorns. Burglars will avoid barriers which can slow entry and escape and they know that a small item of ripped clothing or blood on your killer hedge can help the police identify them. Police advise different hedge heights in different places to secure your property.

At the front of your property you want your neighbours or passers by to spot suspicious or unusual activity. Consequently, the police advise that you may wish to restrict the hedge height. A good rule of thumb is to maintain the height of hedges and shrubs to about that of ground floor windowsills. This physical and psychological barrier is high enough to deter most burglars but low enough to ensure visibility.

If you are planting a hedge at the rear of your property the police advise that they should be allowed to grow up to 6ft high (1.8m). If you have a wall or wooden fence at the rear, grow a hedge alongside and over it. Pyracantha and Berberis can be attached to fences or trained through a trellis to deter climbing. The same applies if you are growing a hedge to stop access to the rear of a house, from the front.

The following plants are often used for defensive planting and burglar or intruder proof hedging.

Consider;

• Crataegus Monogyna or Common Hawthorn. If it can keep cows out, it can keep intruders out. Spiny, white spring flowers and deciduous.
• Blackthorn or Prunus Spinosa. Similar to hawthorn, just as spiky, but produces sloes.
• Barberry or berberis hedging. A thorny range with a range of Evergreen colours.
• Common Holly llex Aquifolium. A traditional hedge. It doesn’t come bare root, but with our low prices it is very affordable. Holly can be both rural and formal depending on how it is cut. Good evergreen privacy. If you are planting a Hawthorn hedge, a bit of holly mixed in looks nice.
• Pyracantha has lovely flowers and is covered in berries in winter. It also has thorns like hypodermic needles.
• Rosa Rugosa can make a pretty but fast growing impenetrable hedge.
• Mahonia Aquifolium can be a nice deterrent under windows.

Boundary hedges want to be dense hedging to keep things in and out. If you are seeking a bit more formality you may wish to consider

• Escallonia. Grows at 1ft per year. Evergreen with lovely flowers.
• Fagus Sylvatica (Common Beech) or Purple/Copper Beech (Fagus Sylvatica Purpurea). Deciduous but retains leaves in winter. If you have a very wet site consider Hornbeam (Carpinus Betulus) as a similar alternative.
• Western Red Cedar (Thuja Plicata). One of the best coniferous hedges, evergreen and unlike Leylandii can be cut back into the wood.
• Flowering Currant (Ribes King Edward). Deciduous with crimson spring flowers.
• Taxus (Yew). A superb, dense and formal hedge. Not suitable for stockproof hedging as poisonous, but looks fantastic and pretty easy to maintain.
• Common Box (Buxus Sempervirens). A traditional staple. Grows at 4-6inches per year so it is very easy to maintain. A bit more formal than Privet
• Corylus Avellana (Hazel). ….and some nuts.
• Shrub Honeysuckle (Lonicera Nitida) Hedging with masses of tiny leaves.
• Sorbus Intermedia (Swedish Whitebeam): Dark Green and deciduous foliage

If the hedge is going to be planted next to a main road, in an urban area, you may wish to consider our hardy pollution surviving hedges. These include;

• Brachyglottis Greyii or Scenecio Greyii: small hedging to 75cm height.
• Mahonia Aquifolium or Oregon Grape. Dark green prickly leaves, yellow flowers in spring
• Olearia x Haastii or Daisy bush. Dense with white flowers in summer and dark green leaves.
• Pyracantha Coccinea (Firethorn). Dark green foliage with creamy flowers.
• Or… look around and see what is doing well in your environment

If you want a hedge to stop noise…

• Plant the hedge or trees close to the noise source rather than close to the area to be protected.
• Maximise the density of the buffer by planting plants close together. If it is a hedge plant staggered double rows rather than a single row. Use 7 plants per metre rather than the staple 5. You can even plant three rows.
• Use plants with dense foliage. Yew (Taxus Baccata) is close leaved as Box (Buxus Sempervirens). Common Privet (Ligustrum Vulgare) Hedging can be dense and is faster growing
• Consider a copse of trees behind the hedge with a range of foliage shapes and sizes within the noise buffer.
• Foliage of the plants should persist from the ground up. You don’t want gappy bottoms!
• Use tall plants for faster results.
• Use evergreens for all year round protection. What about a nice dense Ilex Holly hedge
• If the noise is coming from a generator, or is really bad consider building a wall against the noise source, growing a hedge against the wall and then planting trees between you and the hedge.
• If planting a belt of trees, or hedge to stop noise, make it parallel to the noise source and twice as long as the distance from the road to the recipient of the noise. Make the tree belt as deep as possible but at least 20 ft to have any impact, preferably 100ft!

Wind can make your garden seem cold. It can remove moisture from your garden and slow plant growth. More importantly it can make you feel cold! Generally, the wider, taller and deeper any protective screen from the wind is, the more protection it will give.

A good hedge can filter the wind, slows it down and helps to create a warmer microclimate. Hedging will generally offer shelter on its leeward side equal to 10 times its height.

A few ideas of hedging that thrives in exposed sites include;

• Griselinia Littoralis, which is also known as New Zealand Privet likes the odd gale. Its broad, fleshy leaves make it one of the best windbreaks going.
• Elaeagnus x Ebbingei is a fast growing evergreen that loves coastal spots.
• Escallonia forms nice dense hedging and are frankly superb in very exposed situations.
• Hawthorn is a surviver or blackthorn if the soil is very heavy.
• Hebe can be very hardy hedging.
• Olearia Haastii or Daisy Bush.
• Wild Rose Red (Rosa Rugosa Rubra) is a upright, fast growing deciduous rose hedge that flowers for most of the summer.

Why not plant a few trees between you and the hedge, or in the hedge as hedge trees? They help stop the wind and will look great. Consider these hardy trees that can thrive in the wet and help build a layer of protection.

• Scots Pine - Pinus sylvestris
• Sycamore - Acer pseudoplatanus
• Italian Alder - Alnus cordata
• Common Alder - A. glutinosa
• Silver Birch - B. pendula
• Downy Birch - B. pubescens
• Himalayan Tree Cotoneaster
• Ash - Fraxinus excelsior
• Holly - Ilex aquifolium
• Goat Willow - Salix caprea
• Violet Willow - Salix daphnoides
• Whitebeam - Sorbus aria
• Rowan - Sorbus aucuparia

We couldn’t really agree what was a low hedge. For what it is worth, this is what we prefer.

• Berberis Thunbergii. Green leaves, red in autumn and yellow flowers in spring
• Brachyglottis Greyii (Scenecio Greyii) to 75cm
• Lonicera Nitilda (Shrubby Honeysuckle). Tiny dark green leaves that make a great low hedge from 2ft.
• Lavender: Check out Lavandula Angustifolia Munstead, English Lavender Augustifolia Hidcote and French Lavender Stoechas Papillon for small hedges around 2ft high
• Japanese Spindle: A good 1m high hedge
• Edging Box (Buxus Sempervirens Suffruticosa) is a staple dwarf hedge
• Prunus Laurocerasus Otto Luyken (2-4 ft)
• Yew is superb formal hedging from 1ft high
• Cytisus or Broome makes a good 2 ft hedge with loads of colour

• Mexican Orange is a little more formal than Mock Orange, but they both bright colour to your garden.
• Berberis, such as berberis darwinii, brings bright clusters of colour to your garden.
• Viburnham Tinus brightens up winter days with flowers.
• Lonicera is a super winter flowering plant.
• Beech and purple or copper beech have rustic colour throughout the winter as they retain their leaves when cut to a hedge. A purple hedge – just superb.
• Warminster Broom (Cytisus Praecox Allgold) brings colour to a 2ft high hedge.
• Crab Apple Malus Sylvestris flowers add colour to any hedge. Mix it in with Hawthorn.

• Escallonia ‘Apple Blossom’ evergreen and pink flowers
• Lavandula Augustifolia or English Lavender
• Lonicera or Honeysuckles
• Mahonia Oregon Grape Hedging
• Burkwood Osmanthus (Osmanthus Burkwoodii)
• Rosa… as the name suggest the rose hedging can transform a garden. Rosa Alba and sweet brier (dense fragrant and spiny stems) are lovely traditional varieties. Rugosa makes a great hedge.

Soils that are deficient in lime are generally acidic. This can result in poor hedge growth. If your soil is acidic, we suggest that you consider;

• Elaeagnus (Oleaster). Mostly evergreen with attractive foliage
• Ilex (Holly). Evergreen with glossy foliage and fruits
• Salix (Willow). Deciduous with attractive stems
• Sambucus Nigra (Black Elder). Large creamy flowers followed by black fruits.
• Sorbus
• Taxus (Yew). Evergreen with attractive foliage
• And finally check out Weigelas which tend to tolerate acidic soil.

Soils that have large quantities of lime are generally alkaline. Hedging Plants that are very tolerant of alkaline soil include;

• Escallonia. Evergreen with white or red flowers.
• Forsythia. Deciduous with early yellow flowers.
• Osmanthus. Evergreen with white flowers.
• Mock Orange: Deciduous with white flowers.
• Prunus (Cherry). White to red flowers.

Your hedge may fail if the site becomes waterlogged and the plant is deprived of air. If there is a chance of this, consider plants that love wet places. Our top recommendations are;

• Salix (Willow)
• Poplars
• Grey Alder, Common and Italian Alder
• Alder Blackthorn
• Common Laurel
• Snowberry
• Western Red Cedar
• Elder
• Hornbeam
• Guelder Rose

Dark hedges create a very impressive backdrop to a bright flower border. They can help create a microclimate, protecting your plants and filtering the wind. Our favourite backdrop hedges are

• Yew
• Lawson Cypress

Fruits add colour, and the wildlife will love you. If you want to help birds nest, plant double paced rows to grow a thicker hedge to protect them. If you want to feed them, and add colour to your garden, you may wish to consider;

• Crataegus Monogyna (Common Hawthorn). Thorns protect nests, white flowers and red haws attract and feed wildlife.
• Pycanthras for their protective spiny branches, and bright berries.
• Cotoneasters for the huge quanity of fruit.
• Blackthorn for the sloes (for you or the wildlife). Another good mix with Hawthorn.
• Ilex Aquifolium Meserveae Blue Angel for its dense protection for birds, but also the mass of glossy red berries.
• Myrobalan or Prunus Cerasifera for the fruits, and perhaps a bit of Crab Apple Malus Sylvestris mixed into a hedge.
• Corylus Avellana (Hazel) or perhaps a bit of Walnut sprinkled in the hedge for nuts.

Some plants have seperate sexes and require both male and female plants to produce fruit, unfortunately we are unable to guarantee the sex of our plants.

• Dogwood because they make an attractive low hedge because of their colourful stems.

Summer bees and butterflies are attracted to nectar rich flowers. Consider

• Escallonia
• Common Broom
• Pyracantha
• and all of the Lavenders

You may wish to consider…

• Beech because it retains the golden dead leaves in the winter when clipped in to a hedge.
• Purple beech, because of the attributes of a beech hedge, plus the fantastic purple colour in the summer.
• A mix of Holly and Beech (purple or green) to create a semi evergreen two tone hedge in the winter.
• Amelanchier Canadensis (Snowberry) because it goes red as autumn approaches.

Try our RHS bare root mixed hedging plants;

Native Mixed Hedging Bare Root 2 Year Old 40/60cm (1+1) Pack of 50
Our Royal Horticultural Society Native Mixed Hedging Bare Root Pack consists of (50%) of Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) but also includes a mix of Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa), Hazel (Corylus avellana), Common Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) and Field Maple (Acer campestre) (10% of each). These 2 year old plants are 40/60cm in height and are packed in 50s which is ideal for a 10 metre run of hedging with a planting distance of 5 per metre. This hedging mix is made to reflect rural hedging. It is suitable for all soil types and positions, it grows well in town, coastal or exposed gardens.

Wildlife Friendly Mixed Hedging Bare Root 2 Year Old 40/60cm (1+1) Pack of 50
Our Royal Horticultural Society Wildlife Friendly Mixed Hedging Bare Root Pack consists of (50%) of Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) but also includes a mix of Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa), Hazel (Corylus avellana), Common Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) and Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris) (10% of each). These 2 year old plants are 40/60cm in height and are packed in 50s which is ideal for a 10 metre run of hedging with a planting distance of 5 per metre. This hedging mix will produce a great selection of fruit, berries and nuts that will attract wildlife in winter and dense cover all year round. It is suitable for all soil types and positions, it grows well in town, coastal or exposed gardens.

Another idea is to see what grows locally and make your own selection. We would recommend, as a standard mix, 60% of the hedge being hawthorn plus 10% of 4 of those listed below. To check out what is local, take a walk and see what is growing around you.

• Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
• Field Maple (Acer campestre)
• Common Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea)
• Hazel (Corylus avellana)
• Spindle (Euonymus europaeus)
• Common Holly (llex aquifolium)
• Common Privet (Ligustrum vulgare)
• Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa)
• Dog Rose (Rosa canina)
• Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum lantana)
• Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus)

Why not add a hedging tree or two as part of your rural hedge? Consider Common Oak (Quercus robur), Whitebeam (Sorbus aria) or Beech (Fagus sylvatica). If you buy them at 1.25m or more in height we sell them in singles. Make sure hedging trees are well marked (e.g. with a pole or netting) to ensure that they don’t get cut with the hedge.

As an added extra feature for our customers, we now offer a gifting option for our 1,2,3 and 10 litre potted plants. Gifting your plant couldn't be easier. Simply add the options at the product information page and our websites will automatically add your extra items to your basket. At checkout, you then have the option send the plant to a different delivery address and you can also add a personalised gift message to be sent to your gift recipient.

Give a gift that will keep on growing!

We do everything in our power to ensure that our plant gifts are delivered to you looking as healthy and beautiful as when they leave us. ChoiceShops Garden and Leisure Stores source the highest quality plants available, many of which are home grown in our Herefordshire nursery, in rich Herefordshire soils, and with a known seed provenance.

Once you have chosen your gift plant, we hand pick it ready to prepare it for gifting, to your specification. Attention to detail is imperative and our specialist trained staff ensure that your gift plant is carefully packed and your gift delivery can be sent out to the recipient within 24 hours of placing your order (if ordered before 7am Monday to Thursday).

Our standard delivery charge is £5.99 (excluding VAT) per order for mainland UK. Large items or quantities may require a pallet delivery surcharge. Incremental charges apply in Northern Scotland, Northern Ireland and Channel Islands.

Our range plants are constantly updated depending on seasonality and what is looking good in the nursery.

RHS Planting Guide for Bare Root Plants (PDF)

RHS Planting Guide for Root Ball Plants (PDF)

Videos:



Double Row verses Single Row planting
Single row planting is suitable for ornamental and larger plants. This may require from 1 to 4 plants per metre - depending on the plant size and growth rate. Double row planting (staggered) is suitable for bare root plants where a thick robust hedge is required, a livestock proof hedge. This may require 5 to 7 plants per metre.

What do I need?
A fork; spade; hedging plants (enough for run of hedge); organic material such as garden compost; rake; wheel barrow; watering can or hose pipe. Optional: PowerRoots; canes; hedge guards; slow release fertiliser; secateurs.

Step one
Choose a site for your hedge based on your need and the plant's requirements. Make sure your soil has adequate drainage.

Step two
Dig the planting trench the length and width of the desired hedge. The exact dimension will be determined by the purpose, site and the plant that has been chosen. We recommend that hedges are planted 0.5 metre (20 inches) apart in staggered, double rows. Some types of bamboo may require more room depending on their spreading nature. A general rule is that the trench should be at least twice as wide as the plant root ball and of equal depth.

Step three
Fill the planting trench with water, and allow it to soak into the soil. This "watering in" step ensures that water will reach the plant's roots and help prevent shock. Add one PowerRoots per metre of hedging into the soil below the plant roots. The tablets will encourage 'friendly funghi' growth, stimulating root growth.

Step four
Sprinkle the PowerRoots dry powder on the plant roots, this will form a gel around the roots when they get wet, decreasing transplant shock and enabling faster growth. Place all plants in the trench at the appropriate spacing. Make sure plants are straight canes can be used for support and hedge guards protect young plants from rabbits and deer. Any necessary trimming may be done at this stage.

Step five
Backfill the trench with the original soil. Gently tamp down soil and water deeply.

Step six
Spread a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch or other organic material around each plant and covering the entire hedge area.

or

Quick Tip - Storing Bare Root plants.

If you have bare root plants you can use an old gardener's trick. This method works well if you want to store the plants before creating your hedge or, if you are short of time. Stick a spade in the soil and leaver it forward to open a gap behind the spade. Gently push the bare root plants into the gap, withdraw the spade and tamp down the soil around the plants. Water your plants well after planting. Bare Root plants will survive happily over winter if stored in this way, until your ready to create your hedge.

Maintenance
a hedge requires a commitment to regular maintenance. All types need trimming at least once a year, others more often. Regular light pruning is better for the hedge, and easier to carry out, than infrequent heavy pruning. Modern power tools do the job quickly when the hedge is trimmed regularly. High and overgrown hedges often need costly specialist equipment or professional help to get them back into shape - and create a huge heap of garden waste to dispose of.

Time to establish
use canes to support young hedge plants and hedge guards to protect against rabbits and deer, add a temporary screen of fine netting or windbreak material to create privacy while the hedge grows. A faster growing variety which establishes more quickly might not be suitable in the longer term as it keeps on growing.

Ability to outgrow the site or cause damage
avoid the problems which can be caused by a hedge which gets too big for its situation by choosing the right plants.

Young Rabbits will nibble at any plant, so there are no guarantees. However, if they have a variety of plants available some will be more damaged than others. This is a guide of the sort of plants where you may or may not have a problem. Spirals and canes can be expensive compared to the cost of the plants, so you may find it cost effective to watch and see ahead of using them.

Plants Heavily Damaged
Amelanchier (Serviceberry)
Berberis 'Crimson Pygmy' (Barberry)
Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud)
Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese Floweringquince)
Chaenomeles speciosa (Common Floweringquince)
Crataegus species (Hawthorn)
Deutzia species (Deutzia)
Euonymus alata (Winged Euonymus)
Forsythia species (Forsythia)
Fothergilla species (Fothergilla)
Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel)
Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon)
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea)
Malus species (Flowering Crabapple)
Prunus bessyi (Sand Cherry)
Prunus x cistena (Purpleleaf Sand Cherry)
Rosa species (Rose)
Rosa multiflora species (Multiflora Rose)
Syringa patula 'Miss Kim' (Lilac)
Viburnum carlesii (Koreanspice Viburnum)
Viburnum x juddii (Judd Viburnum)
Viburnum plicatum (Doublefile Viburnum)

Plants Moderately Damaged
Cotinus coggygria (Smoke Bush)
Rosa species (Rose)

Plants Seldom Damaged
Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple)
Aesculus glabra (Buckeye)
Aesculus hippocastanum (Horsechestnut)
Aesculus parviflora (Bottlebrush Buckeye)
Budddleia davidii (Butterfly-bush)
Buxus species (Boxwood)
Cornus alba (Tatarian Dogwood)
Cotoneaster species (Cotoneaster)
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris (Climbing Hydrangea)
Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth Hydrangea)
Ilex glabra compacta (Dwarf Inkberry)
Juglans cinera (Butternut )
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut)
Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Laurel)
Liquidamber straciflua (Sweet Gum)
Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree)
Picea pungens 'Fat Albert' (Blue Spruce)
Pinus strobus (White Pine)
Potentilla fruticosa (Bush Cinquefoil)
Rhododendron P.J.M. Hybrids (Rhododendron)
Rhododendron species (Azaleas)
Rhus species (Sumac)
Taxus species (Yew)
Ornamental Vines
Campsis radicans (Trumpet vine)
Clematis species (Clematis)

Commercial Plant Passport
If you are taking our plants across EU borders for trading purposes, you will need our Bare Root plant EC Plant Passport UK/EW12896 ZPb2 conf RP. Northern Ireland and the Channel Islands are Fire Blight free areas. This passport number confrms that our plants are Fire Blight free.

Personal Use
If you want to move Bare Root plants, seeds, bulbs or cut flowers for your personal use, within the EU, you can do so without the need for any plant health certificates – providing they are within your own luggage, not intended for any trading purpose, and free of pests and diseases (which ours are!).

1. Delivery Time Scale/Conditions
We aim to deliver within 2-3 weeks of your order being confirmed, however there are some occasions where this is not possible and the time scale may be extended, if this is the case then we will endeavour to keep you informed at all times.

2. Ground Preparation
Plants will not grow where soil contains too little air, insufficient nutrients or where soil moisture is either excessive or insufficient. Pre-planting soil preparation should aim to improve these conditions:
-Loosen the soil generally to eliminate compaction and improve drainage.
-Improve soil fertility by using fertiliser, organic matter and lime.
-Ideally, assess the need for lime with a soil pH test.
-Improving the soil for a wide area (2-3m (6½-10ft) around the tree) is best practice.

If soils are waterlogged over winter consider installing drainage, or an alternative is to plant on a slight mound, about 25-30cm (10-12in) high and 1m (39in) in diameter. Excess moisture can kill the finer roots, which become blackened and sour smelling. Wet roots are more susceptible to disease, especially Phytophthora.

3. How to Plant your Tree
-Remove plants from containers or fabric wrapping (some specimen trees specify that the wrapping be left on under the terms of their guarantee, but normally fabric wrappings should be taken off).
- Tease out and spread the roots to get an idea of their spread. Dig a planting hole that is no deeper than the roots, but is up to three times the diameter of the root system. If the sides or base of the planting hole are compacted, break the soil up with a fork before planting.
- With container grown plants, the top layers of compost should be scraped away, and the point where the roots flare out should be near the soil surface.
- Place the plant in the planting hole. Refill the planting hole carefully, placing soil between and around all the roots to eliminate air pockets.
- There is little evidence that adding extra fertiliser and organic matter to the planting hole helps; in fact this practice can hinder plant establishment as the organic matter decomposes and may cause the plant to sink. There is also less incentive for the roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.
-When planting it is very important that the tree is not planted too deep, it should be planted at the same level as it was at the nursery, there will be a clear indication on the stem of how deep the roots were in the ground, planting any deeper can cause the stem to rot and the tree to fail.

4. How much watering to do once planted
One of the most common problems with newly-planted trees and shrubs is drought stress, even during the mildest of our summers the rainfall will not normally replenish the soil with the necessary water the trees need to survive. Dry windy spells will also cause the soil to lose a lot of water, and if not dealt with the trees could be damaged. During the establishment stage it is very important to ensure that the soil around the roots is moist at all times.

5. Weeding advice
- Weeds, lawns and other vegetation intercept water before it reaches the roots of newly planted trees and shrubs it is best to keep a vegetation-free circle at least 1.2m (4ft) in diameter around the plant for its first three years to help avoid this problem. Keep the circle weed free through hoeing or use of contact or systemic weed killers. By laying mulch over this circle is also helpful, although take care to leave a collar of 10cm (4in) around the woody stems that is free of mulch, to prevent the risk of rotting the bark.

6. Should you stake the tree?
Trees should be staked as soon as they are planted, this is to prevent wind rock, and the movement of the roots. If the roots move then this can cause new ones to tear, slowing down the establishment of the tree. Most trees will take a couple of growing seasons to become fully anchored in the soil. The stakes should be checked regularly and any that are damaged or not fully supporting the tree should be replaced.

7. Known issues (pests, disease etc)
We know that all the stock that we send out is always 100% healthy when they leave the nursery, however as is the case will all plants, trees are unfortunately susceptible to a variety of problems that may be present in your area; diseases, pests and extremes in weather. New trees are seen as a brilliant source of food by animals such as deer, rabbits and mice. If you do not offer the tree some protection from these animals then there is a possibility that they may cause damage that will take a number of growing seasons for the tree to recover.

There are a number of diseases that can affect trees, with each different species of tree be susceptible to different diseases, if you are worried that your tree(s) have are suffering from disease then contact us immediately and we will do our best to diagnose the problem and suggest possible remedies.

FAQ Section
1. When will I get my tree(s)?
We aim to deliver within 4 weeks of your order, but sometimes due to circumstances beyond our control it may take a little longer, you will always be kept up to date with delivery times. To keep delivery costs to a minimum we do not deliver to specific dates, but operate a system whereby we deliver to an area of the country every 2-3 weeks, this means that when you place your order it could be delivered within 2-3 days or 2-3 weeks. We will always let you know several days before hand of the date we intend to deliver.

2. How tall will they be?
As a rough guide tree height can be worked out from the girth, (which is measured at 1 meter up the stem in cm) a tree that has a girth of 06-08cm would be between 2.5 and 3.0 meters tall, whereas a girth of 12-14cm would be between 3.5-4.25 meters tall.

3. Do I have to be there for delivery?
Yes, because of the nature of the ordered items, there needs to be a couple of people present at the time of delivery to assist with the unloading and positioning of the trees.

4. How long can I leave them out of the ground?
We recommend that you do not leave bare root or root-balled stock out of the ground for more than 2-3 days once you have received them. This however is not the case if they are delivered and the ground is frozen, you can leave them outside and let the roots freeze and then plant once the weather clears up.

5. When shouldn't I plant trees?
Bare rooted and root-balled trees should not be planted in the summer; you should not be able to purchase bare rooted and root-balled stock between April and October. In the winter the planting is at the mercy of the weather, if the ground is frozen or water logged then do not plant.

6. How tall will it get?
This depends on the particular tree ordered; each has a detailed description on the site which indicates the eventual size.

7. Can I visit the nursery?
At this moment in time we are unable to accommodate visitors on a large scale, however if you are looking to place a large order call our customer service team and we will try to organise a guided tour.

8. Which Tree should I pick?
This is entirely down to personal preference and the conditions in which the tree is to be planted.

9. My soil is wet/dry/clay/acidic, what tree is best?
We have taken the time to put together lists of trees that can survive in a number of soil conditions, please browse through them in order to make your choice.

10. Where do I start?
Have a look at our tree packs, these are ready made packs designed to be used in a specific situation
11. What is the best time of year to purchase?
We send out our bare root and root-balled trees from November through to April, however it is possible to pre order at any time of the year. This secures the stock for you and will be dispatched as soon as the trees are ready to lift.

12. Can I get a discount?
We have tried to price the trees as competitively as possible, so discounts on small orders are unlikely, but we will look at any order over £500 to see if we can apply a discount.

13. Why is the from price so low compared to the price for one?
This is because it is easier to go and pick up 4 trees from one batch than collecting 1 tree for 4 different batches.

14. What guarantee do you offer?
By law there is no need to offer a warranty on plants, but we want to offer you peace of mind when buying your trees. So if for some reason your tree(s) fail within the first year of purchase, and you have followed the planting information provided and have not had a hose pipe ban in your area, then we will replace it at the first possible opportunity, all you will have to pay is the delivery charge. This replacement however would not be covered by the guarantee.

Most apple trees generally grow badly on their own roots, or are self-sterile . The art of grafting certain varieties onto rootstocks has been practised for several centuries. Using rootstocks allows for a more defined eventual tree height and also allows for cultivation of trees that cannot reproduce by natural methods.

M27 is an extremely dwarfing rootstock that will limit growth of a tree to between 5-6 foot at full maturity (approximately 10-15 years of age). A tree of this size will produce an average yield of 15-25lb (dependent on conditions). Fruits will generally first appear between 2-3 years of age and tree will reach full fruit capacity at 4-5 years. M27 provide a good choice for apple trees for patios, pots, training cordon and step-over trees. Permanent staking is generally required, and there may be a necessity for permanent branch support.

M9 is a very dwarfing rootstock that will limit growth of a tree to between 8-10 foot at full maturity. M9 rootstocks will produce approximately a 35-45lb yield per annum after 5-6 years old. First fruits will appear between 3-4 years. M9 is a popular choice for dwarf bushes, cordons and small espaliers. They are also a good choice for small gardens with rich soil. Permanent staking is vital, and branch support may be needed.

M26 is a dwarfing rootstock that will limit growth of a tree to between 10-12 foot at full maturity. This rootstock will enable trees to produce an approximate yield of 65-75lb per annum after 5-6 years. First fruits will generally appear between 3-4 years. M26 is a popular choice for gardens with average soil conditions where a smaller tree is required. Staking is generally only required for the first 5 years, after which the trunk will be strong enough to support it's own weight.

MM106 is a semi-dwarfing rootstock that will allow growth of between 14-18 foot at full maturity. The average annual yield of an MM106 tree is between 90-110lb after 7-8 years. First fruits will appear between 4-5 years. MM106 is the best choice for average gardens with average soil conditions. This rootstock can also be used for half standards but is too vigorous for cordons unless accompanied with poor soil conditions.

MM111 & M2 is a vigorous growth rootstock that will allow a mature tree to grow to 18-25 foot. A tree of this height will generally produce an annual yield of between 160-360lb depending on conditions. Trees grown on this rootstock are very large and will spread vigorously. First fruits will appear between 6-7 years with full fruit capacity evident between 8-9 years. Fruit grown on MM111 & M2 rootstock will need to be harvested using ladders and specialist tools for pruning and spraying.